Aromas reminiscent of blackberry jam emanate from the glass of the 2000 Clos Vougeot. A forward wine of outstanding depth, purity, and detail, it is medium-bodied, awash in super-ripe dark fruits, and possesses an extensive finish. Drink this generous, fruit-filled offering over the next 7-8 years. Madame Lalou Bize-Leroy liked both the 2000 and 2001 vintages, stating that she was “rather pleased with the 2001s as they will bring lots of joy to those who drink them young” and that the 2000s “are candied fruit, reduction of fruit, the essence of fruit.” Many Burgundians chose to bottle their 2001 early in order to “trap” the fruit in the bottle, but Bize-Leroy beat them all to the punch, having completed the bottling process by early September, 2002. Typically an early bottler, Mme. Bize-Leroy felt that the 2001s would lose their fruit to either oxidation or the required sulfuring if left in the barrel for a longer elevage. Overall, Domaine Leroy’s 2001s are a success, though many were found to reveal stemmy, woody tannin in their finishes. If this characteristic melts away quickly, my scores on those wines will appear overly conservative. Importer: Martine’s Wines, San Raphael, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400

The 2000 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru from Leroy, after having changed a corked bottle, has a fresh bouquet with blackberry, undergrowth, mint and a touch of clove. The palate is vibrant, a Clos Vougeot with a spring in its steps. It does not possess the depth or complexity of the finest Clos Vougeot that I have encountered from Leroy, but there is a beguiling transparency and an edgy, sappy finish that beckons you back for another sip. Fine, but not a bona fide success given expectations. Tasted at Carré des Feuillants restaurant in Paris.