Tasted at the pre-dinner vertical to mark Sylvain Pitiot's retirement from the domaine, the 2009 Clos de Tart Grand Cru has a more intense bouquet than the 2010, although it does not possess the same otherworldly sense of nuance and complexity. Yet it blossoms in the glass, attaining more and more precision, and redcurrant and cranberry scents appear mixed with rose petal and bergamot. The palate is medium-bodied with lovely balance and poise; the tannins are perhaps a little firmer and grippier than the 2010 with a symmetry on the finish that is beguiling. It actually becomes more like the 2010 on the finish so that the two wines end up more similar than you would expect, given the growing season. It is a sublime expression of the vintage.

The 2009 Clos de Tart saturates the palate with exotic, ripe red fruit. The quality of the fruit gives an impression of near seamlessness despite the wine's considerable volume and depth. Tar, licorice and smoke are some of the many notes that wrap around the intense, powerful finish. There is more than enough depth and pure pedigree to allow the 2009 to enjoy a long life in the cellar.

Good bright, deep red. Knockout nose combines cherry liqueur, raspberry jam, mocha and clove. At once velvety and energetic, with strong acidity enlivening the intense flavors of candied red fruits. The nobility of texture and tannins here is remarkable. Finishes extremely long and scented, with late suggestions of torrefaction. This made the very promising 2010 Clos de Tart seem lean by comparison. Both vintages have pHs around 3.5 or 3.55, notes winemaker Sylvain Pitiot, who believes the 2009 will need 15 years in the cellar.

Early budbreak and an easy flowering meant green harvesting was needed to maintain concentration in 2009. The result at Clos de Tart was a wine with a ripe plummy fruit touched by accents of smoke, earth, cigar leaf and perhaps a hint of volatility. Picking started on the 15th of September to produce a wine with a texture that is velvety and rich, with a concentrated structure and a plump feel on the palate that lingers richly on the finish.