It has been six years since I last tasted the 2013 Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru, when I wrote "Class. Class. Class." I have no need to alter that assessment. With fragrant raspberry, wild strawberry, crushed limestone and flint on the nose, this has a transparency that is a wonder to behold. The palate is beautifully balanced, poised with a fine line of acidity, full of tension with vivid red fruit on the finish that belies the structure underneath. Magnificent. Tasted at a private dinner in Beaune.

(as of vintage 2012, the recently replanted vines have gone into this grand cru cuvée; previously they were used to make a Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru; 70% new oak): Full, deep red. Lovely purity and perfume to the aromas and flavors of raspberry, cranberry, rose petal, minerals, nutmeg and mace. Juicy and floral on entry (the young vines give the attack an open feeling, notes Marie-Christine Mugneret), then sweet, dense and seamless in the middle palate, but with a light touch owing to superb energy. Finishes subtly saline and very long, with a firm spine of tannins and minerality. The grapes were picked with 11.8% potential alcohol but this wine has the highest pH of these 2013s, at 3.45. A perfect example of a 2013 with very good phenolic ripeness and flavor development at a low octane level.