This is so delicious already with sliced apples, honey and stone. Hints of cream and slightly ripe fruit. Lime, too. Full-bodied, tight and linear. Really excellent for the year. Drink or hold.

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er Cru sports a very discreet reduction, but the mineralité and tension shine through here; quintessentially Puligny, with green apples and a light petrichor scent. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity. The new oak lends a slight sweetness, but it feels in sync with the fruit. Taut and fresh on the finish, this is a delicious La Folatières in the making, but it needs 3–4 years to absorb the wood. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-lès-Beaune.

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières (Récolte du Domaine) is showing superbly, wafting from the glass with a complex bouquet of white flowers, fresh peach, grapefruit zest, warm bread and toasted nuts. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with an enveloping attack that segues into a tight-knit core, before concluding with a long, intense finish. This is emphatically a young Folatières, and a decade of bottle age will be rewarded with additional complexity and textural plenitude, even if the outgoing style of vintage means that it could be enjoyed sooner. It derives from vineyards that were formerly farmed and vinified by Domaine Leflaive.

Very lively and yet concentrated too. Would withstand comparison with any domaine wine (hem, hem … which could I be thinking of?). Really sculpted and edgy. (JR)