Tasting Notes and Scores
A 2005 Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes (from the upper reaches of that large vineyard) smells of bitter chocolate-covered black cherries and pralines, fills the mouth with ripe rich fruit but also with salty, stony minerality, engenders a sense of doughy richness and substantiality, and finishes with long, consistent black cherry, toasted nuts, chocolate and chalk. This is not a Charmes of particular elegance, much less delicacy, but neither does so much fatness and sweetness of fruit become heavy or tiring. Laurent Ponsot (like his father) vinifies to the beat of a different drummer, whether it is in his employment of a basket press from 1945, his reliance on exclusively (truly) old barrels, his aggressive pigeage, or his virtual refusal (since 1988) to sulfur the wines (nitrogen and CO2 are administered at bottling). The results are as distinctive as the methods, but also profoundly impressive and proven to age magnificently. Certainly one has to adjust to a background level of chocolate and that lack of a certain “pep” that is otherwise conveyed, MSG-wise, to wines given a normal quota of sulfur during their elevage. But after a few samples – and especially when I re-tasted these wines “cold” at 7:00 A.M. – I was fully attuned to their virtues. The alcohols in 2005 are as high as 15%, but you do not notice it, even when told. Asked when he intends to bottle, Ponsot replies “I don’t know. Maybe one or two in the Spring, maybe before the harvest, maybe afterward.” Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802.
David Schildknecht
Robert Parker
2007-04-30
This is a little tight on the nose and requires more coaxing than other wines. It has an animally quality, not so much of the femininity that I found elsewhere. The palate is unresolved, primal but supple and grippy with a great crescendo of redcurrant and cranberry fruit on the slightly bitter finish. This will require patience but the length and persistency suggests that it will be worth the wait. Drink 2012-2020. Tasted January 2007.
Neal Martin
Wine Advocate
2007-01-01
Outstanding. Heavy reduction makes the nose almost impossible to accurately read but it's clear that beneath all the reductive funk lies notably ripe fruit. The flavors however are classic Chambolle with both generosity and serious dry extract conferring a textured and dense character to the otherwise concentrated but fine flavors underpinned by firm tannins that will require the better part of a decade to fully resolve. Terrific quality here. Drink 2015+
– Burghound.com, Issue 25. Tasted Jan 2007
Allen Meadows
A 2005 Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes (from the upper reaches of that large vineyard) smells of bitter chocolate-covered black cherries and pralines, fills the mouth with ripe rich fruit but also with salty, stony minerality, engenders a sense of doughy richness and substantiality, and finishes with long, consistent black cherry, toasted nuts, chocolate and chalk. This is not a Charmes of particular elegance, much less delicacy, but neither does so much fatness and sweetness of fruit become heavy or tiring.
– David Schildknecht (Wine Advocate #170, April 2007
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