Ponsot's 2001 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru Cuvée Vieilles Vignes is going from strength to strength, and this bottle was showing beautifully, wafting from the glass with notes of red plums, smoked duck, cherries, spices, mustard seed and potpourri. On the palate, it's full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with chalky but melting tannins, tangy acids and a long, stony finish. Somewhat rustic in profile, it isn't the most elegant vintage of Ponsot's Clos de la Roche, but it's beginning to drink well today.

There is even more aromatic complexity with similar and brilliant red and black fruit notes though not the spice with superbly sappy, concentrated and very pure flavors that display flat out incredible length and impeccable balance. This isn't quite as dense as the Clos St. Denis but I suspect the superior balance will permit it to live even longer. Either way, both are great wines.

The 2001 Clos de la Roche Cuvée Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru was poured at a private dinner in London a few weeks after the tasting. I must admit to being disappointed with this showing. It lacks pedigree on the nose and is a little volatile compared to two other red Côte de Nuits that night. Likewise, the palate does not cohere together at the first pour or over the following couple of hours. In fact, it becomes more acetic, and I end up not finishing my glass. This was just not a fecund period for Ponsot. Tasted at La Trompette in London.