The 2013 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a very expressive bouquet like many Bâtard ‘13s from barrel: white peach, Mirin and apricot blossom, wonderful mineralité coming through with aeration. The palate is very well balanced, not a million miles away from the Meursault Perrières, with a great crescendo of fruit on the spicy finish. Excellent.

(from 85-year-old vines that yielded a lot of tiny yellow grapes, according to Colin): Pale, green-tinged yellow. Very ripe aromas of peach, clove and minerals. Sweet, fat, rich and very ripe, with just enough acidity to frame the tangy nectarine and mandarin orange flavors. Shows a creamy old-vines quality and a rich, long, surprisingly firm-edged finish. The malo has finished here but I suspect this wine still has a bit more sugar to convert. This fruit was the ripest in 2013, coming in at about 12.2% potential alcohol and chaptalized to 12.8%.

Two small barrels, 228 litres. On the Puligny side. His strategy is to pick early because he tries to avoid heaviness. Lighter than some on the nose. Big and broad. Quite punchy. With lots of chew. Brawny. (JR)