The 2004 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru has a tense and steely nose, minimalist yet focused, becoming flinty with time. The palate is fresh and vibrant, understated initially yet gains in intensity. With wonderful length, this wine bellows "Proper Chablis". I love its uncompromising nature and the energy it has retained after 18 years. Superb. Tasted at the La Paulée in Beaune and a second bottle in December with consistent notes.

Pale color. The most complex and subtle of these 2004s on the nose: lime, grapefruit, white pepper, wet stone. Suave and penetrating on the palate, with terrific cut and intensity to its wet stone and citrus flavors. Perhaps best today on the brilliant, pure, slow-mounting finish, which offers a whiplash of flavor and a powerful impression of energy. This is utterly unevolved but even today there are no hard edges. A great 2004.