The 1999 Clos des Ruchottes is tussling with the 1996 as the best of the decade. Lucid, almost iridescent in color, the bouquet explodes across the sky with voluptuous aromas of cassis, black cherries and vanilla pod. Brilliantly defined and focused, it is utterly beguiling. The palate is very well balanced with silky smooth tannins that just glide across the mouth. Cashmere! It fans out gloriously toward its crescendo with lush plum and blackberry notes, but underneath there is a minerally core to counterbalance the sheer sexiness of this wine. Fabulous, but you need patience to really appreciate it. Drink 2018-2040. Tasted September 2013.

Medium-full colour. Hints of maturity. Lovely high-toned, fragrant nose. Medium-full body. Harmonious. Subtle. By no means a blockbuster. Full of soft, plump, very well-balanced fruit. Long. Fine plus.

Red-ruby, a bit lighter than the Clos de la Roche. Highly aromatic, liqueur-like nose combines sappy wild berries, dark chocolate, coffee and game, all lifted by a floral topnote. Lush and harmonious on entry, then penetrating and sweet in the middle, but still youthfully tight. Firmly tannic finish calls for patience.

Deep ruby color bursting with black fruit. Sweet, supple and very sappy all laced with pronounced notes of truffle and earth. There is good intensity and solid length. As the Ruchottes sometimes does, it makes an excellent case to join the "big 3" in terms of overall quality.