Ruchottes-Chambertin is one of my favourite crus within the ‘walls’ of Gevrey-Chambertin. As the Gevrey Grand Cru vineyard that is the most upslope in the village, it tends to produce wines of incredible refinement which those who like more muscly or heavier wines might describe as a bit light. But Rousseau’s 2011 delivers impressive weight for the vineyard. Remaining refined and polished, it nonetheless has notable concentration on the mid-palate with appealing notes of dried cherry, earth and spice. The ultra-fine, chalky tannins balance and tighten up its slightly extroverted personality. Though evolving, it is still youthful and would benefit from a few more years in the cellar.

The 2011 Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru was aged in a judicious 10% new oak. It has an entrancing bouquet that is a serious level up from the Mazy and Charmes-Chambertins with pure fresh strawberry, raspberry and violet aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, sensual tannins and a fine line of acidity. This is silky smooth in the mouth, that prudent oak just giving it lift and sensuality. If I were buying 2011 Rousseau, my money would be spent here. Drink now-2025. The man, the legend himself, was sitting in the entrance office. Charles Rousseau, now in his ninth decade, looked gaunter than when we last met two or three years ago, but what a privilege just to see him enjoying the summer rays. I tasted through the 2011 with vineyard manager Frederic Robert, whose candid answers I always appreciate when tasting through their portfolio, especially since it is easy to succumb to reputation at this address. The 2011 is the first vintage with a redesigned bottle now embossed with the domaine name to prevent fraud. He also spoke about their new 1.3-hectares of vine from Chateau de Gevrey that is tentatively called “Clos du Chateau” or something similar. However, he admitted that there is much work to do in the vineyard since around 25% to 30% of the vines are missing and were replanting last October. “We started to pick early on the last day in August as spring had been so hot,” he informed me as we broached the subject of the 2011s. “It was a ripe vintage with more acidity if you compare it to 2007 but the wines are more balanced. It is more a vintage for restaurants than for aging.” Given that this is one of my favorite producers in the Cote d’Or, I have to admit that the Village and Premier Crus were lacking a little stuffing and precision compared to their own impeccable standards. In a way, I do not mind that since Rousseau always expresses the strengths and weaknesses of a vintage, which is something to be admired. Plus, on one or two occasions, I wonder whether they should have dialed down the new oak, in particular with the Clos-de-Beze that seems unable to handle the wood nearly as well as the Chambertin. Still, there are some beautiful wines here in 2011 and a quick barrel tasting of 2012s revealed joy to come. Importer: Frederick Wildman Selections; New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Healthy, lively mid red. Intriguing, unforced, pure fruit with polished tannins and fine acidity already. Dry but not drying finish and wonderful health and purity. Lots still to emerge, it seems. Mouth-filling and very long. Wonderful subtlety and nothing disappointing suggests there is absolutely nothing wrong with the 2011 vintage at the top end. (JR)