The 2012 Latricières-Chambertin possesses a super-classic sense of cut and energy. Black fruit, smoke, autumn leaves and new leather form the backdrop as this intense, saline-infused Burgundy shows off its vibrant, layered personality. Here, too, readers need to be prepared to be patient. The Latricières is a wine for the cellar. Trapet used 65% whole clusters. This is a great Burgundy in the making.

Good medium red. Slightly sauvage nose and palate combine black cherry, underbrush and espresso elements, with complicating notes of pepper and truffle. Lush, seamless and filled in, offering lovely balance from the outset. Less floral and fruity than the Chapelle but even denser. Most impressive right now on the building, unflagging finish, which features noble, broad tannins and the structure to support a long and graceful evolution in bottle.