I need to up my score for Cecile’s 2012 Morey-Saint-Denis Les Tres Girard. The wine is still not bottled, but is beginning to develop wondrous purity on the nose that is pure and refined. The palate is suitably elegant and poised, still a little earthy on the finish, but very long. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800; www.weygandtmetzler.com; and Justerini & Brooks and Vine Trail both in the UK.

One of the more aromatic and savory wines in the range, the 2012 Morey-Saint-Denis Tres Girard is exotic and very nicely layered throughout. Dark spices, dried herbs and dark fruit meld together in a Burgundy with tons of medium-term appeal. This is another serious village level wine from Cécile Tremblay. The style is built on intensity and power, both of which will be slightly tamed with further aging.