For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

The 2018 Morey-Saint-Denis Très Girard, containing 20–30% whole bunch, has a soft and gentle bouquet of black currant, red plum and crushed stone aromas that needs a little coaxing from the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins and a wonderful bead of acidity, making this Morey one of the most elegant village crus I have encountered. This comes recommended.

Aromas of wild berries, cassis, grilled meats and rich soil tones introduce Tremblay's 2018 Morey-Saint-Denis Très Girard, a fleshy and enveloping wine that's medium to full-bodied, supple and gourmand, with powdery structuring tannins and a nicely defined finish.

Right next to the winery. Chalky and marl, very white, 40 cm down it is all chalk. Barrel sample. Lovely dark-red peppery fruit. Fragrant in a darker-fruited Morey style compared with the Bourgogne Côte d’Or just tasted. Delicate but quite sweet tannins, seductive already, fresh and scented. Refined on the palate, stony, dry but not dry tasting. All finesse, subtle yet persistent. (JH)