Palish, moderately saturated red. Riper on the nose than the village Volnay, offering scents of black cherry and spices. Also juicier and more penetrating in the mouth, conveying good subtle intensity and salinity to its flavors of cherry, minerals and soil. Bitouzet notes that this wine has same pH as its 2015 sibling: 3.46. I find it less exuberant than that wine but every bit as precise. Dusty tannins reach the front teeth on the long back end.

The 2016 Volnay Les Aussy 1er Cru has a pastille-like bouquet, very pure with red cherries and strawberries, though it feels a little flatter than its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin and good grip, quite saline in the mouth but stubbornly tight towards the slightly bitter finish that cuts away swiftly. Tasted blind at the 2016 Burgfest tasting in Burgundy.

Situated below Champans, François’s 0.51 ha of vines were mostly planted in 1956, with some in 1998. Transparent ruby. Polished and easy – lots of pure pleasure here without any awkward tannins and sufficient acidity to keep it refreshing. A rarely seen premier cru. (JR)