A superfine nose with the freshness still very much leading the way. Lemon and fresh wild strawberries, almond milk and a hint of brulée toffee; really lively. The palate has a bright, crunchy and assertive burst of lemon flavor on entry with white cherries and smooth, sherbet-like texture that delivers weight with elegance. Great balance here. Impressive and youthful, super pure and full of power.

The 2002 Brut Cuvée Nicolas François was disgorged in January 2015 with four grams per liter dosage, and it's showing superbly, wafting from the glass with a complex bouquet that mingles confit citrus, peach and dried papaya with nuances of iodine, brioche and honeycomb. On the palate, it's full-bodied, broad and vinous, with a rich and layered core that's underpinned by serious structure and tension, concluding with a long and precise finish. This is one of the finest wines Billecart has released in the last decade, and it is well worth seeking out.

The 2002 Cuvée Nicolas François Billecart comes across as rich, powerful and opulent. This latest release of the 2002 was disgorged in July 2015 and finished with a Chardonnay-based liqueur whereas the previous release, disgorged in May 2014, was finished with a Pinot Noir-based liqueur. This is a distinctly vinous, almost shockingly raw, visceral Champagne from Billecart-Salmon. There is no shortage of volume or intensity, that is for sure. Stylistically, this year's release inhabits a whole other world relative to last year's release. Dosage is 4 grams per liter.

60:40 Pinot Noir: Chardonnay. Very similar blend to the 2008. Disgorged in 2019. This blend was bottled later than usual, in 2021 rather than 2020 to give it additional lees-ageing in tank to gain weight. 18% barrel vinification. 3 g/l dosage. The musts had 10.5% potential alcohol. Rich nose with a hint of golden syrup! This seems just at the right point for current drinking. Great balance with powerful charm. Long. (JR)