One of the pinnacles of this Champagne vintage, the 2004 Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes Françaises—disgorged in 2012—has now stepped into its prime enjoyment window and unveils a bouquet of kaleidoscopic complexity, exuding aromas reminiscent of candied tangerine zest, praline and beeswax, intricately mingling with aromas of spices and a subtle smokiness. On the palate, it is full-bodied with immense concentration and plenitude, layered and enveloping, yet exquisitely balanced, displaying remarkable depth supported by a spine of racy acids and culminating in a long, resonant finish. For all its power and profundity, it retains an effortless sense of completeness.

It is hopeless to predict when a VVF reaches its peak. There is always a startling concentrated fruit which is most smiling sunny tropical in its youth. I tried my first 2004 vintage together with the generous Danish Brian who put it up against the far more deeply matured 2000 vintage. The concentration is equal and the notes may be a bit more exciting in the somewhat darker 2000 vintage. The honey-finish is the same but with a slightly more tingling youthful acidity in 2004.

–champagneclub.com, Richard Juhlin

This rare blanc de noirs from Bollinger’s oldest plots of ungrafted vines in Aÿ is always one of Champagne’s most impactful wines. 2004’s gentler side, however, plays beautifully in that frame, bestowing a sense of polished, cushioned calm behind the characteristically intense, mature fruit; nut honey and dried apricots, butter pastry and bay, all sitting under some pine and forest floor maturity with an energising kick of cooked lime through the close. It’s a wine of huge presence and vinosity, sumptuous in build yet stony and serious rather than sweet toned in older age. It seems likely to carry on ageing in the near future with few changes of direction.

We start with a side-by-side comparison of Bollinger’s 2002 and 2004 Vieilles Vignes Françaises, one of my favorite Champagnes. The 2002 is spectacular, as it always is. Rich, warm and resonant, the 2002 covers the palate with seemingly endless layers of burnished, honeyed fruit and the most finessed, subtle mousse imaginable. I don’t see the 2002 making old bones, but it is flat-out great tonight. The 2004, on the other hand, is disappointing. More advanced in its flavors and with quite a bit less structure than the 2002, the 2004 is already maturing and needs to be enjoyed sooner rather than later.