Bollinger's PN series has only gained in popularity, showcasing the house's expertise with Pinot Noir. For the latest edition, the house has reverted to the lesser-known Pinot Noir premier cru of Tauxières in a cool pocket of the southern face of the Montagne de Reims, comprised once more of just under half of the base year plus reserves from 2019 and 2018, and reserves from 2012 and 2008 aged in magnum. At first it's full of the exuberant pink-tinged fruit of the ultra-ripe, hot season; juicy raspberry and sweet apricots, rounded and approachable. Both the cool, chalky restraint of the village and the added shot of smoky, charry, honeyed richness of the reserve wine – not to mention the acid focus of the 2008 and 2012 – elevate it dramatically, leaving the wine with no lack of drive and refreshment factor. This is another highly imaginative, rewarding release, a little less mineral and restrained than the PN VZ 19, yet just as layered. Drink 2025-2030.

With the sixth edition of its PN series Bollinger is back to Tauxières as the core village (38%), complemented by Aÿ and Avenay. In a sunny and dry year, this terroir thrives, and Bollinger has 18 hectares here in one huge block. The wines of the year get complimented by 52% of reserve wines of three amazing harvest years: 2019, 2012 and 2008. Add on it Bollinger’s ever-improving viticultural work, we have a wine that is precise and deliciously on the fruit. Soft apple and sweet apricot nose with pastry complexity, fruit candies and peach compote. The oaky notions stay beautifully in the background, On the palate the oak has helped in taming the phenolics of the dry, solar year. Supple with a degree of vinosity, the mature reserve wines add texture to the mid palate. On the lighter and fresher side for cuvée PN, this is a charming edition with its deliciously fruity and saline length, enhanced by its 8g/l dosage.

The NV PN-TX20 is a powerful, tightly wound wine. All the drive of Pinot comes through in this decidedly virile Champagne. As with all the wines in this new series from Bollinger, the NV PN-TX20 is built around a base wine, in this case 2020 Pinot Noir from Tauxières, with 50% reserve wines, half of them from Bollinger's extensive library of reserve wines aged in magnum. This is an especially vinous Champagne, one that needs at least a year or two in bottle to unwind. The year was characterized by a relatively short cycle of just 87 days from flowering to a harvest that began on August 25. Dosage is 8 grams per liter. Disgorged: January, 2025.