See score and full tasting note at champagneclub.com.

Tasted side-by-side with the 1996, Bollinger's RD 1995 bucked the trend of the 1996s feeling less assured than the 1995s. It's a reminder, too, that bottle condition can play a defining role at this age. Nevertheless it's a vinous, savoury Champagne full of ageing characters like roasted plums and lemons, dried mushroom, powdered ginger and musky notes. The palate shows honey-nut richness, chewy apricot skin and slightly slack energy. It's deep and complex, yet, at least in this bottle, tipping to over-maturity.

This wine was recommended, but no tasting note was given.

Light gold color. Textbook Bollinger aromas of toast, lees and buttered toast, along with suggestions of fresh mushroom and white truffle. This is really about earthy tones, not fruit. Thick and fat to the point of being oily in texture, with deeply pitched sweet cream and butter tones and a slow-to-unfold singed pineapple flavor. For fans of Bollinger, this is a serious buy. .

Disgorged 7 March 2011. Very interesting comparison with 1996. Very hot summer. Fast maturation and harvest started 20 September. 1995 like was like 1988 and 2007 and 2008. The malolactic was not done so the acid is higher than usual but in a different style. Lowest pH ever in Bollinger at 2.86. Only 63% Pinot Noir. 17 villages. 82% grands crus. Yield 11,000 kg/ha, initial potential alcohol 9.2%, initial TA 8.7 g/l. pH 2.86, final TA 6.2 g/l, final alcohol 12.1% . Rather deeper gold than the 1996. Where the 1996 is austere and low key on the nose, this is exuberant and welcoming on the nose, though is not nearly as tight knit and youthful as the 1996 on the palate. The 1996 makes this look even a little slack! Though I'm sure when tasted in isolation it is hugely charming. Broad and even quite rich and open for a Bollinger. (JR)