Bouchard’s Blanc de Noirs Val Vilaine is especially strong in 2017 and also a fabulous introduction to this range of magnificent Champagnes. Beautifully resonant and inviting, the 2017 is so gorgeous. Pear, baked apple, dried flowers, mint and spice all build as the 2017 opens up in the glass. More than anything else, the 2017 impresses with its poise and raciness. The slightly reductive character found in some previous releases is not present in the 2017, and that really lets the purity of the fruit shine through. Bouchard does not push this site to the degree he does most of his other vineyards, so the Val Vilaine doesn’t quite offer the complexity of the top wines here, but words really can’t do justice to just how delicious the 2017 is. Don’t miss it. No dosage. Disgorged: April, 2019.

Roses de Jeanne is the range made from Cédric Bouchard's own, particularly low-yielding vines, rather than his father's vineyards, which he also manages. The vineyards are farmed biodynamically by hand and horse. The soils here in the Côte des Bar, richer in clay in a slightly warmer climate than further north. This is a single-vineyard champagne from the 1.5-ha Val Vilaine lieu-dit with vines aged 35+ years. Only 300 to 500 cases are produced annually. Cédric Bouchard created his own Champagne house as recently as 2000. 100% Pinot Noir aged for three years on the lees. Disgorged April 2019. Zero dosage. Engaging and intense mature aroma soared out of the bottle as soon as it was opened. Remarkably little mousse. But an intense perfume in the floral spectrum of Pinot Noir. Nice, neat, rather rich palate – amazing since this is relatively young and there is zero dosage! Testament to how ripe these grapes get. Perhaps this is a champagne to savour during or even after a meal rather than as a zesty aperitif. Bone-dry, long finish. Very Pinot and rather flirtatious. (JR)