The 2006 Dom Pérignon P2 is a total stunner. It's a vintage that seems to be especially suited to long aging. Everything about the 2006 is amplified. Its aromatics, fruit and structure are simply dazzling. The explosive finish is unforgettable.

The P2 late-release concept does seem to work wonders with riper, heavier vintages, and 2006 is no exception. The sheer fruitiness of orange confit, juicy stone fruit, mango and roasted citrus has quietened a little into an integrated, honeyed and voluptuous whole, marked with ground coffee and baklava decadence of age yet held in check with a bitter citric snap, charry smokiness and a lick of tannic firmness rather than acidity. It’s a joyous, complex and expansive P2 which will give its best over the next five years.

See score and full tasting note at champagneclub.com.

The 2006 Dom Pérignon P2 is razor-sharp on the nose, much more malic than I was expecting, much more primal. It brought to mind dew-speckled Granny Smiths with crushed limestone and a touch of petrichor. The palate is bright, vivid and does not hold back. It’s tensile with a thread of acidity that some might find shrill, but nevertheless, I loved the intensity and drive on the finish. Perhaps on its own, the 2006 comes across a bit raw, though it mellows with aeration and loses some of its cut-glass edge. I would afford it another couple of years.

The 2006 Dom Pérignon P2, crafted from a blend of 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay with a modest dosage of 4.5 grams, is presenting exceptionally well at this stage. It unfurls a complex, deep bouquet of smoke, ripe orchard fruits, mango, exotic fruits and spices. Medium to full-bodied, rich and expressive, it’s harmonious and enveloping and has gained structure and tension compared to the initial 2006 Dom Pérignon, while the palate is perfectly balanced with delicate gastronomic bitterness and chalky dry extracts that contribute to its long, mineral-driven finish. It should go well with delicate fare. P2 is the acronym for the Plénitude 2 series, Dom Pérignon’s second life, indicating that bottles are kept by the house to let them age on the lees and to obtain different expressions of the same wine throughout its life, letting time work its magic and thus acquiring additional complexity.

2006 concluded an exceptional series of five vintages of Dom P in a row. Four of them were marked by heat, which resulted in very ripe grapes at the time of the harvest. This was unprecedented in three centuries of winemaking in Champagne and introduced a new challenge, 'allowing Dom Pérignon to push its creative process even further'. The years 2002 to 2006 have revealed considerable variations in vintages: from the hot years of 2003 and 2005 to what are described as 'the feelings of generosity and light' associated with 2002 and 2006. (I have a tendresse for the 2004 – see 2002 and 2004 de luxe champagnes compared .) More hot than dry, 2006 was almost tropical due to alternating periods of sun and rain. After a late spring, a heatwave in July was followed by a cold, very wet August. The heat came back in September, allowing the grapes to reach full ripeness. Mature bready nose and wonderful tension on the creamy palate. Long and rich. A treat of a wine. Always difficult to suggest a drinking window for these late-release champagnes! (JR)