I tasted this at a friend’s 50th birthday, where we drank several incredible 1966 Bordeaux (the standout being Cheval Blanc 1966 that could easily have featured here). This was of course much younger, but just a brilliant Champagne. Richly textured, perfectly toasted from its 12 years on the lees (it was disgorged in 2008 and these later disgorged bottles have a little less dosage than the 2004 version). Elegant and precise but with layers of lemon curd creaminess that adds to the impressive complexity on display. This is 20 years old but still almost impossibly vibrant and fresh, and has many years ahead of it.

Superbly toasty, highly expressive nose packed with sweet gunpowder, aromatic wood, ginger and mineral notes. Long and linear structure coming with super high, perfectly lined acidity. Lean, zesty and expansive. Highly youthful still, full of unreleased energy. Constantly improving. At CSWWC we awarded it as the World Champion Deluxe brut. I have come across several corked bottles, which makes me recommend this less whole-heartedly as I would based on a perfect bottle.

Essi Avellan MW, essiavellan.com (December 2019)

A real legend that you rarely see under this label, but that is how I usually enjoy this great vintage. Creamy and phenolic maturity, but at the same time the wine has great potential. Have won further on being in contact with the yeast precipitate even longer. Further a gear in this master wine. Hold on for magnum and drink from the year 2025. On the bottle, it is already lovely with a strong seafood touch, classic roasting, nutritious wealth backed by a senseless acidity and length.

Richard Juhlin, The Champagne Club (December 2024)

The 1996 Dom Pérignon Oenothèque has really turned a corner over the last six months or so. When it was originally introduced the 1996 was hard as nails, today it is an exquisite Champagne that captures the essential brightness and energy of the year. Lemon, slate, oyster shells and white flowers stain the palate in an intense, beautifully sculpted Champagne of the highest level. Drinking Window: 2016-2031.

Antonio Galloni, Vinous (October 2014)

Deeper straw than the regular 1996 vintage Dom P. Much more expressive on the nose, although with lots of evidence of age. Complete and fresh on the palate – much more youthful than the regular 1996. For perfection I’d choose the nose of this and the palate of the regular! Masses of acidity still in evidence. Exuberant, creamy wine with no hurry to drink it.

Jancis Robinson MW, jancisrobinson.com (June 2016)

This shows amazing freshness and depth of fruit while remaining agile and very clean. Full body, dense and layered on the palate. Goes on for minutes with each sip. Lots of mineral and chalk character too. A fabulous Champagne. A blend of half Pinot Noir and half Chardonnay.

James Suckling, jamessuckling.com (September 2013)