The 2002 Brut Argonne is cool, sophisticated and striking. White flowers, spices, dried pears, almonds and citrus are some of the many notes that wrap around the palate in this sublime, beautifully expressive Champagne. Given the vintage, vinification in oak and Giraud house style, I expected a much bigger, richer Champagne. Instead, the Argonne impresses for its sense of poise and overall harmony. The style is classic Giraud, with plenty of gently oxidative overtones from the vinification in oak, but all the elements are very nicely balanced. Argonne is Claude Giraud's new tête-de-cuvée and is named for the forest where Giraud sources his oak.

The first word that comes to mind in tasting Giraud’s 2002 Brut Argonne – which, as its name suggests, was initially raised in new Argonne oak barrels – is “sumptuous.” I cannot recall having previously tasted such an envelopingly and almost thickly rich Champagne. The selection of Ay Pinot Noir chosen here is more than capable of subsuming any overt influence that new oak might otherwise have bestowed on it. Lightly baked apple, quince, and marzipan inform the nose and silken, expansive, plush palate, accompanied by subtly resinous and smoky black tea. The combination of breadth, textural allure, and fine yet intensely active mousse is spine-tinglingly impressive, striking its balance between vinosity and effervescence at a remarkable high energy level. Hints of salt and iodine add interest, local color, and saliva-inducement to a powerful finishing wave of fruit and nut essences. I suspect one will be rewarded for following this 8-10 years down the pike; though I confess to lack of directly relevant experience. Claude Giraud – with whom I have corresponded but have yet to meet – farms 22 acres in Ay, supplemented by purchased fruit. He has become a vocal champion of wood from the local forests of the Argonne, although oak of diverse origins fills out his extensive barrel regimen. Rich, at times positively sumptuous; forceful, sometimes downright powerful; Giraud’s Champagnes make a bold statement that won’t resonate with every lover of this appellation’s wines. And given their prices, even if they weren’t scarce, only a small percentage of wine lovers would be able to access them. To me, they are not just impressive – at times exceptionally so – in their own right, but illustrate the glorious stylistic malleability of Champagne’s grapes and terroirs. I’ll look forwarding to visiting Giraud next year and reporting in much more detail on his stylistic vision and projects as well as his individual cuvees. (I did not taste any recent releases from Giraud’s “Esprit de Giraud” series of tank-raised cuvees.) Imported by Great Signature Wines LLC, Atlanta, GA; tel. (404) 984-8700; and Old World Wines, Miramar Beach, FL; tel. (850) 225-0663