A superb Champagne and still youthful. Honey, ginger, lemon confit, coffee and mineral aromas and flavors come to mind, all kept focused by a firm, tightly wound structure. The finish is where its pedigree shines through, lingering like warm gingerbread and coffee. Drink now through 2015.

It's that time again! How do they do it? Together with Rémi Krug I first tasted this '88 beside the unbelievably good '89 and could hardly believe my taste buds when they sent the message that the '88 was even better. At Krug they themselves compare the wine with the '81, the '55, and the '61. Personally, I compare it to the '66 and the ultra elegant '79. The finesse is unbeatable and the acidity very noticeable. This is a wine that is going to be enjoyed by our grandchildren. Most people probably discourage immediate consumption of this young wine, but I am of a different opinion. I believe that a little bit of the subtle feeling of “tears of joy” disappears when the wine matures. I hope this explains the unusually stingy point differential between today's points and the potential maximum rating.

Krug's 1988 Brut has long numbered among my very favorite vintages for this house, with the best bottles flirting with a three-digit score. Offering up complex aromas of apricot, citrus oil, candied peal, toasted brioche and honeycomb, it's full-bodied, concentrated and incisive, with a deep, layered and tightly wound core, racy acids and a searingly chalky finish. If on release the 1988 got less attention than the more immediate, head-turning 1990 and 1989 vintages, with time it is proving itself the most serious of those three consecutive releases.

Ineffable yeast autolysis aromas (biscuit, meal, nuts) virtually resist characterization; reminded me of a great Chevalier-Montrachet. A wine of extraordinary depth of flavor, vinosity and class, thanks to penetrating but perfectly harmonious, lipsmacking acidity. Quite dry but with wonderfully ripe fruit. Very firm and youthful on the finish, but already displays explosive flavor. A great vintage for Krug.

The 1988 Krug Vintage is exceptionally beautiful. Bright, intense and pulsating with the signature energy of the vintage, the 1988 is a fabulous way to kick off the night and a terrific example of this wine. Hints of dried pear, smoke and slate add the closing shades of nuance. We are off to the races.

Tasted alongside 1988 Salon, the 1988 Champagne Millésime pours a vibrant golden/yellow color and reveals notes of quince, preserved orange marmalade, custard, and toasted brioche. The palate is equally layered and full, retaining refreshing acidity, with a refined pillowy mousse, a long-lasting finish, and notes of marzipan through the back palate. It’s in a gorgeous spot, although I don’t see it improving further.