The 1990 Clos du Mesnil captures the warmth and opulence of the year, yet preserves fabulous minerality and freshness. It is a beautifully balanced, harmonious wine that delivers on so many levels. There is plenty here to satisfy both the intellectual and purely hedonistic senses. Layers of fruit build effortlessly to the seamless, glorious finish. This is a dazzling Clos du Mesnil.

Tasted July 2011

(LLSNFF): Vibrant yellow-gold. Smoke- and mineral-accented pear and Meyer lemon on the deeply scented nose, with notes of ginger, vanilla bean and white flowers adding complexity and lift. Sappy, deeply pitched orchard and pit fruit flavors are braced by juicy acidity, picking up sweet butter and anise nuances with air. Chewy and mineral-driven, with superb clarity and slow-building spiciness. An exotic touch of iodine emerges on the finish, which shows outstanding focus and toasty persistence. The combination of power and energy here is really impressive.

Krug’s 2000 Brut Blanc de Blancs Clos du Mesnil represents the most recent incarnation of a nowadays insanely expensive bottling from a 4.5-acre enclave that they have made legendary with dedicated bottlings beginning with 1979, and which—unlike this house’s “regular” Vintage Brut—is “declared” nearly every year. A striking aromatic evocation of sea breeze, with oyster and mussel shells corresponds with surprising closeness to the initial aromatic impression made by Krug’s “regular” 2000 vintage bottling. But here, gingerbread and candied lemon rind, vanilla and heliotrope emerge from behind the maritime veil, anticipating the ripeness accompanied by transparency to mineral nuances that is revealed on an infectiously juicy and texturally ultra-refined palate. The interaction of maritime mineral, lemony citric, floral and spice elements carries with subtlety and impressive persistence. This is frankly a bit youthfully austere, and I imagine that it will take another year or two for it to begin to tip its full hand; but there is little doubt that nature dealt it a lucky set of cards. It should merit following for at least 12-15 years. Krug—part of the Louis-Vuitton-Moet-Hennessy luxury goods empire since 1999—continues to release wines fully worthy of their house’s exalted reputation that reflect inter alia the effects of micro-vinification in barrel and an (in the best sense) laissez-faire and leisurely attitude toward élevage and bottle-aging. (Although—for what little this may be worth—count me among those who find the metallicized labels that now adorn their bottles glitzy, and as such slightly incongruous with their contents). Director Olivier Krug represents his family’s sixth generation, assisted by veteran cellarmaster Eric Lebel and enologist Julie Cavil. Most Champagne lovers will realize that each bottle from Krug nowadays comes with an identification number enabling the consumer to research its approximate disgorgement date.

Krug’s 2000 Brut Blanc de Blancs Clos du Mesnil represents the most recent incarnation of a nowadays insanely expensive bottling from a 4.5-acre enclave that they have made legendary with dedicated bottlings beginning with 1979, and which – unlike this house’s “regular” Vintage Brut – is “declared” nearly every year. A striking aromatic evocation of sea breeze, with oyster and mussel shells corresponds with surprising closeness to the initial aromatic impression made by Krug’s “regular” 2000 vintage bottling. But here, gingerbread and candied lemon rind, vanilla and heliotrope emerge from behind the maritime veil, anticipating the ripeness accompanied by transparency to mineral nuances that is revealed on an infectiously juicy and texturally ultra-refined palate. The interaction of maritime mineral, lemony citric, floral and spice elements carries with subtlety and impressive persistence. This is frankly a bit youthfully austere, and I imagine that it will take another year or two for it to begin to tip its full hand; but there is little doubt that nature dealt it a lucky set of cards. It should merit following for at least 12-15 years.

Originally released in 2012 but this bottling was not from the first release. Much tighter, fresher and leaner than the Clos d'Ambonnay 2000 once served in a decent champagne glass. Very complex and serious on the nose. Brightly fruited and finely etched. Thrilling tension. This wine was originally served in wide burgundy bowls and these made the wine taste much broader and more developed than the Clos d'Ambonnay 2000. (JR)