The 1990 Clos du Mesnil captures the warmth and opulence of the year, yet preserves fabulous minerality and freshness. It is a beautifully balanced, harmonious wine that delivers on so many levels. There is plenty here to satisfy both the intellectual and purely hedonistic senses. Layers of fruit build effortlessly to the seamless, glorious finish. This is a dazzling Clos du Mesnil.

Tasted July 2011

Krug’s 2000 Brut Blanc de Blancs Clos du Mesnil represents the most recent incarnation of a nowadays insanely expensive bottling from a 4.5-acre enclave that they have made legendary with dedicated bottlings beginning with 1979, and which – unlike this house’s “regular” Vintage Brut – is “declared” nearly every year. A striking aromatic evocation of sea breeze, with oyster and mussel shells corresponds with surprising closeness to the initial aromatic impression made by Krug’s “regular” 2000 vintage bottling. But here, gingerbread and candied lemon rind, vanilla and heliotrope emerge from behind the maritime veil, anticipating the ripeness accompanied by transparency to mineral nuances that is revealed on an infectiously juicy and texturally ultra-refined palate. The interaction of maritime mineral, lemony citric, floral and spice elements carries with subtlety and impressive persistence. This is frankly a bit youthfully austere, and I imagine that it will take another year or two for it to begin to tip its full hand; but there is little doubt that nature dealt it a lucky set of cards. It should merit following for at least 12-15 years.