The latest rendition of Larmandier-Bernier's NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Latitude is based on the 2021 vintage (60%), vinified entirely in wood and complemented by a perpetual blend dating back to 2004. Parcels on richer soils, mostly east- and southeast-facing, deliver rounder, fuller-bodied wines, and this holds true even in the context of the 2021 vintage. Unfurling from the glass with scents of pear, acacia and pastry, it is more ample than the Longitude, with ripe yet vibrant acidity and a pillowy mousse. Disgorged in February 2024 with a dosage of three grams per liter, it will make for a great comparison when tasted alongside the Longitude.

Larmandier-Bernier NV Extra Brut Latitude a Vertus NLR1001-13 (corresponding to a cuvee formerly referred to as “Tradition”) originates with vineyards on the south side of Vertus, whose relative warmth and weight of soil supports a majority of Pinot Noir, which comprises 20% of this cuvee. Alluringly aromatic, this combines saffron, fennel pollen, fresh apple, freshly baked bread, plus tangy buckwheat and ocean breeze, all of which reunite on a buoyant and polished palate, joined by raw almond and with the saline, alkaline and chalky mineral elements gaining prominence en route to a mouthwatering finish. It ought to merit attention for at least 2-3 years. Pierre and Sophie Larmandier farm 40 hectares morsellated into an even larger number of parcels in Vertus and villages on either side, as well as in the grand cru quartet of Avize, Oger, Chouilly and Cramant. Among their notable innovations is the use of helicopter to deliver biodynamic sprays to such a large surface on the appointed “root days.” The precision, refinement, and nuance achieved in their wines are exemplary. A very small share of foudre and barrel is employed for the non-vintage “Latitude” and “Longitude” bottlings simply so as to have a means of “seasoning” that wood before it gets transferred to the vintage program, where tanks are in the minority. The Larmandiers believe in minimal settling of juice after pressing, and all of their wines get close to, if not longer than, one year of elevage before going to bottle for the secondary fermentation, though after that, the time until disgorgement and (six months later) release varies widely according to cuvee. Normally, each non-vintage wine includes reserve contingents from the two previous vintages. Importer: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisko, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

Based on the 2020 vintage and disgorged this year with three grams per liter dosage, the latest NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Latitude delivers aromas of crisp stone fruits, citrus oil, fresh herbs and warm bread, followed by a medium to full-bodied, bright and fleshy palate that's rich and generous in profile. As readers will remember, this cuvée takes its name from its provenance from parcels that share the same latitude: that's to say, the south of Vertus, which routinely delivers a sunnier, rounder style.

Entirely from Vertus but from many different plots to compose a rounder and fruitier style compared to the more mineral Longitude, the newest issue of the NV Latitude Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut (LAT151217) is based on the 2015 vintage and includes one-third of reserve wines. The wine offers a clear, fresh, precise and intensely fruity bouquet of ripe fruits and elegant terroir notes. Very fine and elegant on the palate, this is a linear and expressive style with a beautifully juicy finish with fresh pineapple flavors. Excellent as an aperitif or with white meat. Tasted April 2018.