Its fruit sources spanning all of the prominent villages along the Cote des Blancs in which they have holdings is what prompted Larmandier-Bernier’s NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Longitude L1009-12 to acquire its current name. (It was long simply referred to as the estate’s “Blanc de Blancs.”) Nutty, herbal suffusion of pear, lemon, and green zebra tomato makes for a succulently juicy as well as intriguing cuvee that contrasts sharply – no doubt as intended – with the corresponding “Latitude” bottling. Here we haven’t the aromatic fireworks – though a haunting evocation of flowered, grassy meadow emerges as the wine sits open – but there is an especially fascinating mid-palate exchange with, in part, ineffable elements of broadly mineral nature, leading to a finish of remarkable salivary compulsion and sheer length. This exceptional value in Champagne should merit following for at least 3-4 years. Pierre and Sophie Larmandier farm 40 hectares morsellated into an even larger number of parcels in Vertus and villages on either side, as well as in the grand cru quartet of Avize, Oger, Chouilly and Cramant. Among their notable innovations is the use of helicopter to deliver biodynamic sprays to such a large surface on the appointed “root days.” The precision, refinement, and nuance achieved in their wines are exemplary. A very small share of foudre and barrel is employed for the non-vintage “Latitude” and “Longitude” bottlings simply so as to have a means of “seasoning” that wood before it gets transferred to the vintage program, where tanks are in the minority. The Larmandiers believe in minimal settling of juice after pressing, and all of their wines get close to, if not longer than, one year of elevage before going to bottle for the secondary fermentation, though after that, the time until disgorgement and (six months later) release varies widely according to cuvee. Normally, each non-vintage wine includes reserve contingents from the two previous vintages. Importer: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisko, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

Predominantly based on the 2013 vintage the NV Longitude Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Extra Brut (LON131217) shows a clear, fresh and precise bouquet with flinty/mineral and even floral rather than fruity aromas. The wine blends the fruit of different plots on poorer, chalky soils along the Côte des Blancs. The 2013 vintage delivers a lot of vitality and freshness but also ripe and juicy fruit. This Longitude is quite pure and precise on the palate, very linear and finessed, revealing stimulating acidity and vitality. The wine always includes roughly 30% of reserve wines. Tasted at the domaine in April 2018.

Based on the 2020 vintage and disgorged in November 2022, the new release of Larmandier's NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Longitude wafts from the glass with aromas of sweet citrus fruit, fresh pastry, green apple and flowers. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, its satiny attack segues into a racy, broad-shouldered mid-palate, concluding with a chalky finish.

A considerable increase in intensity and tension compared to Latitude, Larmandier's excellent NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Longitude is crafted from a 2021 vintage base (60%) and combined with a perpetual reserve component. Disgorged in April 2024 with two grams per liter dosage, it is medium-bodied, taut and incisive in personality. Sourced from the villages of Vertus, Oger, Avize, Cramant and Chouilly, it offers aromas of white flowers, citrus fruit and oyster shell. Tangy acidity, informed by the long and cool growing season, with mineral-laden undertones, leads to a chalky, long-lasting finish. Expect a tauter, less ample Champagne compared to the last year’s edition.