The 2013 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses is fabulous. Readers will have to be patient, as the 2013 is in no mood to show all its cards. The late harvest produced a bristling, intensely saline Clos des Goisses that will require years to be at its best. Even so, its depth, textural resonance and finish are so evocative as to what the future holds. The 2013 is a positively stunning Champagne and one of the best Goisses in recent memory. I can't wait to see how it develops. Dosage is 4.5 grams per liter.

Surpassing even the 2012 and 2008, Philipponnat's 2013 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses looks to be the finest vintage of this cuvée in several decades, at least on first acquaintance. Deriving from only the six core parcels out of the 13 that make up the Clos des Goisses, it's a striking wine, evoking aromas of crisp yellow orchard fruit, Anjou pear, clear honey, bee pollen, stone fruit and iodine. Full-bodied, layered and vinous, its textural attack segues into a deep, concentrated and tightly wound mid-palate that's girdled by racy acids and chalky structure, before concluding with a long, saline finish. Why is it quite so good? It would appear that 2013 was the perfect storm: an early-ripening terroir in a cool, late vintage; moderately yielding Burgundian selections of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that attained full maturity; and a willingness to make a strict selection have all come together to deliver a profound Clos des Goisses.

This is quieter in tone than many of the other wines, reflecting its cool, late-ripening vintage. It thrives on its graceful, chalk-driven finesse, feeling sleek and taut on the palate and it finishes with long, lilting length, its citrusy fruit inseparable from its minerality. It’s excellent, yet it really needs further time in the cellar to fully reveal itself. Disgorged: March 2022.

Tasting this a year later alongside the new release of 2014, the 2013 Champagne Clos des Goisses Extra Brut seems to be coming into its own. Composed of 85% Pinot Noir and the rest Chardonnay, and pouring a rich straw/copper hue, it’s starting to show lovely, layered aromatics as it unfolds with scents of red berries, currant, toasted croissant, frangipane, and orgeat. Full-bodied, assertive, and long on the palate, it has driving, assertive energy with fantastic concentration and acidity. Though it has broad shoulders, it remains in check with itself and offers a long, fantastic finish. It has great structure and an angular feel, with notes of Meyer lemon preserves and orange rind, and delivers wonderful energy throughout. This can hold up through a meal of sweetbreads or other rich fare. 10,723 bottles were produced. Drink 2024-2055. Disgorged in March 2022, with 4.5 grams per liter dosage.

The 2013 Champagne Clos de Goisses is still primary at this stage, with currant, smoky perfume, and fresh citrus, and this carries to the palate with refined texture and a precise mousse. There is more nerve and mineral tension with this vintage, and a persistent and supple, chalky finish. This will need time to unwind, although is certainly worth waiting for. Drink 2024-2044. Disgorged March 2022. AF

The unusually steep, southern exposure of the Clos des Goisses vineyard means breadth and intensity are present in the wine even in cooler years. 2013's energy suits it so well, though, with the trademark Goisses powerhouse of roasted citrus, gingerbread and dried pear drawn in finer, narrower lines than normal. It’s tremendously sapid and long, with the richness of apple tart and the detail of sea salt and spice, all set in harmonious balance between fruit and structure. This is a Goisses with a little less overtness and maturity than the 2012, but potentially greater finesse. 85% Pinot Noir, 15% Chardonnay. Drinking Window: 2028 - 2050
Tasted by: Tom Hewson (at United Kingdom, 01 Jun 2023)
Part of Champagne 2013: 10 years on

This is elegant and sophisticated with aromas of red apples, honey, pears, hazelnuts, praline, croissants and hints of white chocolate. Very fine, tight bubbles. Framed and structured. Focused from start to finish, with so much life ahead. 85% pinot noir and 15% chardonnay. Disgorged March 2022. Drink or hold. July 2023.

The first Champagne to sell through the Bordeaux system, now in its second year. This is bright and sappy, with clarity of gooseberry and citrus fruit, gently toasted brioche, full of understated power and pleasure, and touches of frangipane and almond. Love its clean lines and mouthwatering finish. 60% aged in Burgundy barrels, 40% in stainless steel tanks, no malo. Disgorgement at end of March, to deliver in January. You could drink between one and two years from now for fresher flavours, but if you want a more gastronomic experience, wait another five years. Fermented half stainless steel and half in Burgundy barrels. 4.5g/l dosage, Thierry Garnier winemaker. A cool vintage, where the grapes benefited from the warm site of this 5.8ha walled vineyard, but still were harvested into October for the first time in 20 years.

Disgorged March 2022. An exceptionally late harvest, the only one in October in the last 20 years. Pungent, fumy nose. Extremely tense with masses of acidity in evidence at this pre-release stage. A dry finish and an extremely promising work in progress. (JR)