Surpassing even the 2012 and 2008, Philipponnat's 2013 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses looks to be the finest vintage of this cuvée in several decades, at least on first acquaintance. Deriving from only the six core parcels out of the 13 that make up the Clos des Goisses, it's a striking wine, evoking aromas of crisp yellow orchard fruit, Anjou pear, clear honey, bee pollen, stone fruit and iodine. Full-bodied, layered and vinous, its textural attack segues into a deep, concentrated and tightly wound mid-palate that's girdled by racy acids and chalky structure, before concluding with a long, saline finish. Why is it quite so good? It would appear that 2013 was the perfect storm: an early-ripening terroir in a cool, late vintage; moderately yielding Burgundian selections of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that attained full maturity; and a willingness to make a strict selection have all come together to deliver a profound Clos des Goisses. WK

The 2013 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses is fabulous. Readers will have to be patient, as the 2013 is in no mood to show all its cards. The late harvest produced a bristling, intensely saline Clos des Goisses that will require years to be at its best. Even so, its depth, textural resonance and finish are so evocative as to what the future holds. The 2013 is a positively stunning Champagne and one of the best Goisses in recent memory. I can't wait to see how it develops. Dosage is 4.5 grams per liter.

The 2013 Champagne Clos de Goisses is still primary at this stage, with currant, smoky perfume, and fresh citrus, and this carries to the palate with refined texture and a precise mousse. There is more nerve and mineral tension with this vintage, and a persistent and supple, chalky finish. This will need time to unwind, although is certainly worth waiting for. Drink 2024-2044. Disgorged March 2022. AF

This is elegant and sophisticated with aromas of red apples, honey, pears, hazelnuts, praline, croissants and hints of white chocolate. Very fine, tight bubbles. Framed and structured. Focused from start to finish, with so much life ahead. 85% pinot noir and 15% chardonnay. Disgorged March 2022. Drink or hold. July 2023.

The unusually steep, southern exposure of the Clos des Goisses vineyard means breadth and intensity are present in the wine even in cooler years. 2013's energy suits it so well, though, with the trademark Goisses powerhouse of roasted citrus, gingerbread and dried pear drawn in finer, narrower lines than normal. It’s tremendously sapid and long, with the richness of apple tart and the detail of sea salt and spice, all set in harmonious balance between fruit and structure. This is a Goisses with a little less overtness and maturity than the 2012, but potentially greater finesse. 85% Pinot Noir, 15% Chardonnay. Drinking Window: 2028 - 2050
Tasted by: Tom Hewson (at United Kingdom, 01 Jun 2023)
Part of Champagne 2013: 10 years on