Bright yellow. Powerful smoke- and ginger-accented aromas of poached pear, honey and white flowers, along with a suave mineral overtone and a hint of toasted brioche. Sappy and buttery on entry, then tighter in the middle, offering intense citrus and orchard fruit flavors underscored by a chalky mineral nuance. At once fleshy and energetic, finishing with outstanding clarity, thrust and smoky length. Cream-colored label, indicating a later disgorgement, in this case 2012, as opposed to the earlier disgorged black label version, which was disgorged in 2011. LHWCB9.

Close to 30% of the Chardonnay that as always (despite the absence of “blanc de blancs” from its label) dominates Ruinart’s prestige cuvee comes – specifically in the case of their 2002 Brut Dom Ruinart – from the northern Montagne de Reims, though the rest is from the Cote des Blancs (predominantly Avize and Chouilly). Hints of lees autolysis and heliotrope perfume cap a nose in which very ripe sickle pear predominates. Happily, an efficacious squirt of fresh lime lends refreshing and vivacious acidity to the pear on a lush and gently effervescent palate. Pungently struck-flint and iodine-like notes as well as hints of lightly toasted almond and hazelnut add allure to a generously fruity finish. This might well reward a couple of years’ bottle age, though its highly appealing present personality is very much tied up with freshness. Imported by Moet Hennessy, New York, NY; tel. (212) 251-8200

Disgorged September 2012. RS 6.5 g/l. Supplied by Moët Hennessy UK. Tasted blind. Pale gold. Less obvious nose than the Belle Epoque it was served with but it opened out and became broader. Very frothy and savoury. Some sweetness. I don’t immediately recognise this but I like the length. Very tense and tight. More obvious acidity than the Belle Epoque led me to wonder whether it was Lanson. (JR)

Medium-deep lemon. Highly stylish, gunpowder-complexed nose with coconut, mix of spices and fudge. Lovely lemony touch, very pure and mineral. Some straw notes. Very dry, tightly packed, lean, long and driven. Superb acidity. Needs time and is ageing painfuly slowly, but already highly impressive at this stage.