Another winemaker, another era - but still the signature Dom Ruinart elegance. This magnum was disgorged in May 2005 and continues to delight. The colour is of burnished copper, the mousse amazingly compact and persistent. The aromatic profile is dominated by soft leather, vanillin and hints of toffee apple, while the savoury characteristic of the palate, with dry mushroom and truffles both evidenced, opens up a vista of gastronomic potential and belies the 10g/l of sugar added as dosage - nearly double the amount of the most recent vintages. One of the greats!

See score and full tasting note at champagneclub.com.

The fully mature nose has a certain vegetal quality but the palate manages to be both sweet and refreshing. Very beguiling. (JR)

From magnum. Dosage 9 g/l. Very little red fruit at all. Milky, salty, tight. Very austere and structural. (RH)