Pale, green-tinged color. Incredible shiver-producing 99-point nose combines peach, lemon, iodine and steely, petrolly, slatey soil tones; I was reminded of Chevalier-Montrachet and great Mosel riesling. Full and creamy-smooth but extremely young. This brilliantly minerally wine seems to thicken and intensify after 10 or 15 seconds in the mouth, offering layer upon layer of soil tones. A superconcentrated Champagne that completely avoids the heaviness shown by some '95s.

The hugely impressive 1995 Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs displays ripe apple and pear scents. Broad, rich, deep, and medium to full-bodied, this dense (yet admirable balanced), powerful wine is packed with concentrated layers of white fruits, flowers, and toast. Notes of tangy green apples appear in its awesomely long finish to reinvigorate the palate.

Toast and graphite flavors highlight this elegant, graceful blanc de blancs. It has a subtle power driving the candied berry and dried citrus notes, with a touch of pastry and the ever-present mineral. Fine harmony and finish. Drink now through 2015.

A knock out and still quite youthful nose that has everything that you could want in a luxury cuvée including notes of green apple, yeast, white pear and peach and very subtle spice hints merges into sophisticated and classy flavors presented on a base of firm but not aggressive effervescence and better acid support than many examples from ’95 have. A wonderful effort that is only just now beginning to unwind and for my preferences, it needs at least three more years in the cellar first before drinking well over the next two decades.