This 2008 is currently showing itself as a huge version of La Grande Dame, rushing forwards with verve and power. It's a generous wine and has great presence in the mouth, tasting like crushed seashells and pearls of confit citrus. Its tension and high acidity have brought it to a splendid place right now, but will also see it long into the future.

The 2008 Champagne La Grande Dame is forward, with a luxurious perfume of honeysuckle, tropical fruit of papaya, and buttered citrus. The mousse is rounded, with an opulent texture, and it does finish dry, with orange marmalade, ripe melon, and chestnut. Its driving and impressive acidity will make this worthy to cellar and enjoy over the coming 20 years. Disgorged March 2019.

An elegant Champagne, powered by a sculpted frame of acidity and minerality, this wears the refined, lacy mousse and well-meshed flavors of black currant, lemon curd, toast and marzipan like finely tailored clothing. Fresh and lasting, with hints of spice and smoke on the finish. Disgorged August 2016. Drink now through 2033.

See score and full tasting note at champagneclub.com.

Exhibiting aromas of pear, toasted brad, confit citrus and smoke, the 2008 Brut La Grande Dame is full-bodied, rich and textural, with a deep and layered core, ripe but racy acids and a saline finish. A blend dominated by fully 92% Pinot Noir, this is true to the cuvée's rich and muscular style, but the vintage lends it welcome additional cut and precision. It's showing a lot better than the bottles I tasted in the United States last year.

Disgorged January 2018. This is the first Grande Dame made by Dominique Demarville. He decided to push the percentage of Pinot Noir to the max. 92% Pinot Noir, mainly from Verzy (37%) and Verzenay (14%), which represents 51% of the blend. Also 23% Bouzy, 4% Ambonnay and 14% Aÿ. Plus 8% Chardonnay from Le Mesnil. Dosage 6 g/l . Very tight and energetic even if not that much charm. Constant bead. A little introvert and the aroma has to fight a bit to make its presence felt. Dominique says he is concentrating on lightness (corrected later to brightness) for the Grande Dame (and power for the vintage – which seems a little counterintuitive). Lots of acidity and introversion. He recommends this for an aperitif or very light food . (JR)