Explosive and powerful to the core, Vilmart's 2006 Brut Coeur de Cuvée is once again superb. Rich, textured flavors abound in a Champagne that impresses for its resonance and depth. The flavor profile leans very much towards the brighter, Chardonnay side of the spectrum, while the Pinot is felt in the wine's pliancy and overall depth. Readers who can find the 2006 are in for a real treat. This is a dazzling showing from Vilmart. The Coeur de Cuvée is 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot from Les Blanches Voies Hautes in Rilly-la-Montagne. Disgorged May 2013. Dosage is 8 grams per liter.

Light, bright yellow. Expansive passion fruit, poached pear, honey and smoky mineral scents show excellent clarity and pick up a sexy floral nuance with air. Rich but at the same time focused and stony on the palate, offering intense orchard and pit fruit flavors and a bracing jolt of bitter orange pith. Finishes on a subtly smoky note, with strong persistence and lingering spiciness. Disgorged in May, 2013.