The NV Brut Premier Cru Grand Cellier is a great introduction to the house style. A warm, open bouquet leads to a core of generous fruit as the Grand Cellier opens up in the glass. Smoke, mint and flowers are some of the nuances that emerge over time, adding further shades of complexity. This is a superb NV bottling and is not to be missed. The Grand Cellier is 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir, 50% 2007, 25% 2006 and 25% 2005, bottled with 10 grams of dosage. This is Lot L0609, disgorged June, 2009. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2015.

Proprietor Laurent Champs makes some of the most elegant, refined Champagnes readers are likely to come across. Every wine I tasted during my visit earlier this year was fabulous. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to taste any of the house’s roses for this article, but they are among my favorite wines of the entire region. Vilmart’s roses are made in small quantities and disappear virtually as soon as they hit these shores, so readers should be on the lookout for any opportunity to snap them up. All of the Champagnes are aged in oak, which plays an important part in the Vilmart signature, yet few growers are as skilled in finding the perfect balance of fruit, structure and oak. In short, I can’t say enough good things about Vilmart. Readers owe it to themselves to check out these brilliant wines. (Antonio Galloni)

– The Wine Advocate#192, December 2010