Shows very flattering ginger and peach aromas, but tightens up quickly on the palate thanks to its nervy acidity, which keeps the quince, persimmon and marzipan notes in reserve. Superlong finish. JM

From a highly regarded "low acid vintage," Huet's 2005 Vouvray Clos du Bourg Demi-Sec has a very bright citrus color and opens very discreet but precise, fresh, mineral, earthy, vegetal and herbal on the nose from the freshly opened bottle (asparagus, leek, noble mushrooms). Quite lean on the palate but very elegant and finesse-full, this full-bodied wine reveals a nice density and good tannins; it is long with a lingering purity and minerality. It could almost be a Chablis if it were more dry. Highly interesting and elegant, but still finding its way. I would cellar it for another 5-10 years at least. SR