The 2004 Cornas from Clape might have cowed as it preceded two wines from the master, Thierry Allemand. But this bottle was perhaps the surprise package of the evening. Vibrant on the nose, it had the exuberance of a puppy that escaped from the back garden door. Menthol, black cherries, wild fennel and sage, the scents display exquisite delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with disarming balance, black cherries commingling with Christmas cake and fig, harmonious to the finish. Superb.

Ruby-red. Classic Cornas on the nose, with strong scents of red berries, cherry, blackcurrant, smoked meat, candied violet, anise and minerals; this has all the syrah food groups covered. Dense and sweet, with impressively concentrated red and dark berry flavors, bright minerality and fine-grained tannins. Finishes sweet and long, with strong fruit and just the slightest hints of game and earth. Clape describes this one as "delicate, but absolutely Cornas."

We finished the tasting with the 2004 Cornas, and it’s an outstanding, layered, medium-bodied effort that has plenty of kirsch, leather, incense and dried flower-like aromas and flavors. Drinking nicely today, I’d enjoy bottles over the coming couple of years. Always a fun visit, this small vertical took place in Clape’s cellar in Cornas, with Pierre-Marie Clape, who’s now running the estate. We also tasted through multiple barrels of their 2012s and 2013s, but I’ll wait and include that commentary in the northern Rhone report due out in October. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

The 2004 Cornas exhibits the vintage’s crisp acidity along with flowery, plum, blackberry, cassis, new saddle leather, and earthy characteristics. It is a medium-bodied, stylish, potentially outstanding Cornas that should drink well for 12-15 years. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524