Fully mature now, considerably more developed than the 2000 vintage, with overt spicy, leathery, gamey and smoky tones. Less fruit on the palate than a young Clos des Pape for sure, it’s fine and measured, not so generous now. More Burgundian in style, with just a touch of bitter tannin on the finish. Good length.

A solid step up over the '98, the Close des Papes 1999 Chateauneuf du Pape (one of Paul-Vincent's favorites) offers a more youthful color to go with Burgundian notes of spice, dried flowers, black cherries and licorice. More fresh and lively, with medium to full-bodied richness, it has a youthful feel and has another decade of longevity.

(I tasted an unofficial assemblage of all the foudres Deep, saturated ruby-red. Bright aromas of blackberry, currant, plum, cocoa powder, earth and smoke; strong fruit showing today. Fatter and more concentrated than the '98; more fruit-driven and more powerful but not hot. Long and thick on the back end, which features lush tannins and a dusty mourvedre note.

Earthy, mushroomy and developed, with something dank that is evocative of attics and dust. Finely milled tannins with soft tannins and a charming milk-chocolate character on the finish. Still has a very indicative garrigue herbiness on the palate which makes this rhône rather than burgundy. Elegant and mature, with a lovely edge of petrichor. (RH)