The 2003 Clos des Papes Chateauneuf du Pape (the # 2 wine in the Wine Spectator’s annual winefest) has long been one of the most profound wines of the vintage. It somehow manages to offer the vintage’s character in power, high glycerin, and huge volume, but retains remarkable elegance and finesse that is so much in keeping with the style of Clos des Papes. The wine has a dense ruby/purple-tinged color and a wonderfully sweet nose of framboise, blackberry, and kirsch liqueur intermixed with Chinese black tea and licorice. The wine is full-bodied and voluptuous, but once past all the glycerin and beautiful, dense fruit of this full-bodied wine, there is striking purity, elegance, finesse, and surprising freshness. Still primary, it looks set to have a long life of 20-25 or more years. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2025.

A wine that was controversial with a lot of tasters on release (not for me), the 2003 Châteauneuf-du-Pape has been drinking beautifully for a number of years now. It's showing classic sweet red fruits, spice box, and garrigue notes in an ethereal, pure, elegant style. It has the sweet fruit of the 2003 vintage but is classic Clos des Papes today. Paul-Vincent Avril continues to be one of the most talented and passionate winemakers in Châteauneuf-du-Pape today. From his estate located on the southern end of the village and pulling from roughly 90 acres of vines spread throughout the appellation, he makes a single white and red Châteauneuf-du-Pape and has resisted the urge to produce any special cuvées. The wine is always a blend of 60% Grenache 20% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah and the rest a mix of permitted varieties, aged all in older foudre in a temperature-controlled and humidified cellar. His Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a staunchly traditional and world-class wine that always shines for its elegance and texture. Time will tell, but my money is on his 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape being the greatest wine ever made at this address, although the 2007 from my cellar will give it a run for its money. Also, Vincent always pulls out older vintages during visits and I’ve included those wines here as well as few from my cellar.

Deep red color. Positively explosive aromas of fresh cherry, redcurrant, blackberry and candied licorice ("the most kirsch I've ever found in a wine," says Avril). Huge and mouthfilling, with serious weight but also excellent purity to the lush, powerful fruit. Deeply pitched dark chocolate and espresso add even more heft to the flavors, and roasted herbs contribute lift. For all of these elements, the wine is elegant, finishing with outstanding energy and focus.

Mid gold colour. Oily notes, oxidative fruit with a musty, dusty character and toasted notes with soft acid and glutinous texture. Not too old by any means, but I wouldn’t risk ageing it further, especially for a vintage which has such evident ripeness. Light salty tang on the finish. (RH)