A similar extroverted, sexy style to the '09, just on a slightly smaller scale, the 2007 Hermitage Ex Voto offers sensational black raspberry, creme de cassis, creamy licorice and crushed flower-like aromas and flavors, with the telltale minerality/graphite of the Hermitage Hill coming through with time in the glass. While aged close to four years in 100% new French oak, you'd never know it by tasting it. This full-bodied, beautifully concentrated, layered and already approachable beauty will have another 30+ years of drinkability.

Tasted blind. Looked very much more evolved than the Chave equivalent served alongside. Deep ruby with a rust-coloured rim. Relaxed leather and liquorice notes on the nose. Round with perceptible fruit. Lovely now and a much better drink for today than the Chave 2007. Rich, transparent, long and racy. Ready. Oddly, the back label of this wine claimed it was white. Arguably a little gentler than archetypal, long-living Hermitage. (JR)