This is autumn in the glass, with wet-leaf, fresh-mushroom, smoke and dried-meat character. Orange peel, dark fruits, and game pâté. Full body with incredible depth, length, ripe fruit and intensity. It goes on for minutes. Stunning finish. It is so rich, decadent and intense, but fresh and long. It defines greatness. It defines what hermitage was, is and should be.

A more youthful colour compared to the ’80 and ’82. Good intensity on the nose, the greenness of stalks immediately obvious, but giving way to black olives, scorched earth and leather. Less fruit intensity than the ‘ 82 but greater cohesion. The palate is medium-bodied, very harmonious, very good weight with saddle-leather, cigar box and roasted herbs. Fine tannins, excellent structure and focus with a refined finish. This is a lovely Hermitage La Chapelle with a feminine finish. Drink now-2012 Tasted March 2008.

With each additional year of evolution, my rating for the 1983 La Chapelle falls. Although impressive early in life, it has taken on less than positive characteristics. The dark garnet color revealed substantial amber at the watery edge. The aromatics revealed scents of ground beef, coffee, cedar, dried herbs, tobacco, and damp earth. The wine was noticeably astringent, medium to full-bodied, harsh, and forbiddingly backward and austere. I believe I made an error in judgment when I rated this wine outstanding early in its development. As it matures, the tannin dominates. While no one, even the Jaboulets, wants to give up on the 1983, it has become disjointed and out of balance, with astringent, nasty tannin. My best guess is that it will continue to decline and never live up to its promising beginning. Owners are advised to consume, sell, or trade it.

Notes of menthol, charcuterie, olives and dried spices make up the bulk of the bouquet of the 1983 Hermitage La Chapelle, yet it's skinny, lean and tannic on the palate, with just enough texture and depth to keep it enjoyable. Drink up.

From Kate Dugdale's cellar. A difficult vintage in the Rhône with a lot of rot and not much juice in the berries. Not open on the nose but, as it breathes, there's still some senescent fruit aroma and much more depth of fruit on the palate. Savoury, meaty, still chewy. Tannins seem to be winning the race. The Wine Society bottling was more obdurate and drier on the finish. (JH)