Lacking that extra dimension of freshness and purity of the '90, the 1989 Hermitage la Chapelle is still a fabulous wine that offers sensational aromatic fireworks to go with full-bodied richness and depth. Showing classic la Chapelle smoked meats, currants, wood smoke and chocolate, this beauty hits the palate with no hard edges, a blockbuster texture and a finish that just won't quit. It shows the slightly more masculine, austere edge of the vintage, but the tannin is beautifully sweet and it packs a serious amount of fruit in the mid-palate. I've had a few tired bottles of this over the past few years, so provenance is key. Nevertheless, well-stored bottles will continue to drink beautifully for another couple decades.

This fabulous, blockbuster has been totally unevolved since bottling, but at the Jaboulet tasting, it was beginning to reveal some of its formidable potential. A saturated opaque purple color is followed by aromas of cassis, minerals, and hot bricks/wood fire. Super-ripe and full-bodied, with a massive mid-section, teeth-staining extract, and mouth-searing tannin, it is a monster-sized La Chapelle. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2050

A deep ruby/garnet core. The nose wafts from the glass and immediately seduces you to its charms: Maraschino cherry, redcurrant jelly, a touch of kirsch and spice. Superb delineation and focus. The palate is medium- to full-bodied, beautifully balanced, sweet and sensuous, lovely silky texture, notes of cooked meat, earth, saddle-leather, briary with a harmonious, mocha-tinged finish. A gorgeous La Chapelle, this superior to the bottle encountered last year and whilst it does not have the turbo charged engine of the 1990, it has the purr of a Bentley. Drink now-2020+ Tasted January 2008.

From Richard Mayson's cellar. Deep garnet with brick rim. Wines getting noticeably darker now as we get to younger vintages. Smells generous and deep. So sweet on the palate. Rich and full of fruit. Chewy but harmonious, with still lots of fruit depth. Powerful rather than elegant. Full-flavoured, deep, maturely harmonious.  (JH)