Compared to other bottles of this wine, the nose is comparatively closed and takes its time to reluctantly unfurl in the glass. Then those enticing gamey, peppery aromas begin to emerge, subtly so, teasing with their complexity and saying: better come back in 10 years. The palate is full-bodied with beguiling complexity, this once stentorian La Chapelle finally beginning to acquiesce to time, mellowing with its persistent structured gamey finish with touches of black pepper, quite tannic on the finish with hints of thyme, dried blood and bacon fat. Wonderful. Drink now-2020+.

Neal Martin, The Wine Advocate (May 2010)

I tasted the 1990 Hermitage La Chapelle from two bottles, and while unquestionably a brilliant wine, neither were quite at the level of prior bottles which have consistently topped out my scale. It's worth pointing out that both bottles had been recorked at the domaine in 2020. The 1990 is a classic, mature La Chapelle with its standard meaty, gamey aromatics of currants, soy, liquid smoke, and leather aromas and flavors. Full-bodied on the palate, it's beautifully concentrated and opulent, with resolved tannins, a notable sense of freshness, and outstanding length. Both bottles were fully mature (I rated the first bottle 96 points) and there's certainly no upside here, but they will unquestionably continue drinking well for another decade or more. Maturity 2022-2034.

Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com (June 2022)

When Caroline Frey took over in 2006, Jancis Robinson had just published an article called The Rise and Fall of La Chapelle, pointing out the many issues that had befallen this iconic name in the previous decade. Bottle variation may definitely be an issue, but this 1990 - tasted during a recent vertical of the estate at 67 Pall Mall club in London - was glorious, and the wine of the night for me. Silky soft tannins, melted into the structure but still offering a graceful hold to the softly spoken spiced blackberry fruits. Hard to believe but even at 33 years old it takes time to fully open, getting better in the glass.

The subtle smokiness of cured speck is mellowed on the nose by a touch of balsamic sweetness, edged with earthiness and a hint of juniper. The palate is intense, almost inky, with that smoky meatiness that carries a sense of well-hung game and undergrowth. All is framed by superb acidity and vivid juiciness, still holding a wealth of vibrant blueberry fruit. The finish is all lingering gamey savouriness. Matured for 15-18 months in 20% new French barriques.

From Kate Dugdale's cellar. Dugdale thought this was a more youthful version of 1961 (which we did not taste in this vertical). Deep garnet. Smoky, aromatic and then on the palate more obvious smoked meat and richness. Full, peppery, so deep. Freshness to balance. Firm and very long. Incredibly rich and concentrated but with a fresh bite at the end. (The Wine Society bottling seemed more meaty and chewy.) (JH)

The 1990 La Chapelle is the sexy and opulent. I had the 1990 at the Jaboulet tasting, and again out of a double magnum three months ago. On both occasions it was spectacular, clearly meriting a three-digit score. The modern day equivalent of the 1961, it deserves all the attention it has garnered. The color remains an opaque purple, with only a slight pink at the edge. Spectacular aromatics offer up aromas of incense, smoke, blackberry fruit, cassis, barbecue spice, coffee, and a touch of chocolate. As it sits in the glass, additional nuances of pepper and grilled steak emerge. There is extraordinary freshness for such a mammoth wine in addition to abundant tannin, an amazing 60-second finish, and a level of glycerin and thick, fleshy texture that have to be tasted to be believed. Despite its youthfulness, the 1990 La Chapelle is lovely to drink, although it will be even better with another 5-6 years of cellaring; it should age for 35-40+ years. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2050