Coming from a small three-hectare plot of granite soils in the northern part of the appellation (which is the prime terroir), the blockbuster 2012 Crozes Hermitage Domaine Raymond Roure exhibits incredible minerality in its black raspberry, olive tapenade, spring flower, and subtle chocolate-laced aromatics. Tasting like it was filtered through a bed of rocks, it’s full-bodied, thrillingly concentrated and has superb underlying structure. In short, it’s a smoking Crozes Hermitage to drink anytime over the coming 15+ years. Unfortunately, there’s only 500 cases made.

Opaque ruby. Sexy, high-pitched dark berry and floral pastille aromas are complicated by suggestions of olive and star anise. Juicy, focused and pure, displaying excellent verve to its mineral-laced black raspberry and bitter cherry flavors. Shows real depth as well as an almost weightless quality. The mineral element adds lift and precision to a strikingly long, subtly tannic finish that emphatically repeats the floral and berry notes.

A wine that wasn’t produced in 2011, the 2012 Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Roure comes from a small, two- to three-hectare plot of granite soils and steep slopes. An incredible Crozes-Hermitage that tastes more Hermitage than Crozes, it offers gorgeously pure blackberry, graphite, crushed rock and smoked earth aromas and flavors with a full-bodied, concentrated and seamlessly constructed palate. More than a little impressive, it should have 10-15 years of longevity and should not be missed by Rhone lovers. Since 2006, owner Caroline Frey has been steadily pushing for increased quality at this historic estate. Moving all of the vineyards to sustainable farming (which takes years to see benefits), both the vineyard and cellar staff have been doubled. In addition, a new gravity operated cellar was set up in 2010. All of this shows, and across the board, the wines have impeccably made, clean and pure profiles. Looking at the individual Northern Rhône appellations, this estate produces four Hermitage (La Chapelle, La Chapelle Blanc, Le Petite Chapelle and Les Chevalier de Stérimberg), four Crozes Hermitage (Domaine de Thalabert, Domaine Mule Blanche, Domaine de Roure and Domaine de Roure Blanc), one Côte Rôtie (Domaine des Pierrelles), one Cornas (Domaine de Saint Pierre), one Saint Joseph (Domaine de la Croix des Vignes) and one Condrieu (Domaine des Grands Amandiers). Looking at 2011, Caroline stated that it was easy to get ripeness, and harvest was early to avoid heat stress on the grapes. Of the three most recent vintages (2011, 2012 and 2013), 2011 had the highest yields, with both 2012 and 2013 seeing a significant drop. I was able to taste a number of these wines twice, once in a larger lineup covering the individual appellations, and again at a tasting at the domaine, with Caroline and oenologist Jacques Desvernois. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700