The 2000 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Chaupin is another knockout vintage for this cuvee, and at present, it’s drinking the best of the mature vintages. Still deep ruby/purple, it has classic kirsch liqueur, sappy herbs, white pepper and licorice to go with a full-bodied, beautifully textured profile on the palate that carries awesome fruit, notable freshness and plenty of length. Drink it through 2020. One of the benchmark estates in the Rhone Valley, Domaine de la Janasse is run by the talented brother/sister pair of Christophe and Isabelle Sabon. Located in the northeastern portion of the region, near Courthezon, they produce an incredible range of wines, from their Vin de Pays, to their Cotes du Rones and world-class Chateauneuf du Papes, all of which are noteworthy. For this tasting, we started with the 1990s and went up through their 2007s. At this point, the ‘98s through the 2004s are all in varying degrees of full maturity, and drinking brilliantly. In addition, it’s also worth pointing out that these wines have the fruit and texture to dish out immense pleasure in their youth, so don’t be afraid to crack these new releases either. Both of the 1999s were drinking beautifully, and are up near the top of the vintage. Moving to the 2000s, I found that from this point forward, the wines started to show more freshness and vibrancy. Looking specifically at this vintage, these are still mature wines, yet they’re drinking beautifully. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Selections, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

The 2000 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Chaupin is the most voluptuous, sexy offering in the Janasse portfolio. It's the Brigitte Bardot of Chateauneuf du Pape ... full-bodied, rich, and sexy. A sweet, expansive perfume of red and black fruits is followed by a wine of great purity and balance displaying a surprising combination of fat, power, and elegance. Already delicious because of its low acidity as well as its expansive, ripe fruit, it will drink well for 12-15 years. Don't miss this one as it may be even more generous and sexy than the 1998.

The sensual 2000 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Chaupin boasts a black raspberry/kirsch liqueur-scented perfume, a marvelous texture, fine sweetness (because of high glycerin), low acidity, and a flawless, 40+ second finish. This big wine is light on its feet, and super-concentrated. It should drink well for 15+ years. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

Bright red-ruby. Very rich aromas of roasted red fruits, leather and smoke. Fat, sweet and impressively rich; silky and quite deep. A very suave, very long wine with smooth but mounting tannins. A superb showing today, even if this wine from north-facing vines on "cool" soil is not quite as pinot-like as usual.