Very good deep red. Jammy aromas of surmaturite: raspberry liqueur, cherry cough syrup, roasted game, roast coffee and mocha. Large-scaled and impressive on the attack, then rich, very concentrated and mouthfilling in the middle. Big, thick and layered; a bit unrefined next to the '99 normale, but at the same time more traditional and less exaggerated-more crunchy-than the extravagant '98 Vieilles Vignes. Big, spreading tannins coat the front teeth.

Possessing a darker slant to its fruit than the Vieilles Vignes, the 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape gives up beautiful blackberry, ground pepper, cured meats and underbrush to go with a medium to full-bodied, supple, mouth-filling texture. It too is fully mature, yet it still has plenty of mid-palate flesh, sweet tannin and a pure, balanced profile that will keep it evolving gracefully.

The spectacular 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape exhibits a dense ruby/purple color in addition to a fabulously sweet nose of creme de cassis, violets, plums, and intriguing floral scents. With high alcohol, an unctuous texture, low acidity, and copious fruit and glycerin, this wine will offer plenty of up-front appeal, although it will last for 10-15 years. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, New York, NY; tel. (212) 924-4949