Have I shortchanged Rostaing's incredible 2017 Cote Rotie Cote Brune? Swirling notes of roses, herbal tea and lavender potpourri impart kaleidoscopic complexity on the nose, while the medium to full-bodied palate is creamy-ripe in texture yet silky, lithe and downright sexy. Firm tannins on the lengthy finish leave a lasting impression of longevity, of restrained intensity that should carry this wine at least two decades into the future. JC

Even better, which is hard to believe, the 2017 Côte Rôtie Côte Brune is pure silky and is as elegant and seamless as they come. Like the Côte Blonde, it has an incredible floral quality as well as complex notes of classic Côte Rôtie black raspberries, violets, flowers, new leather, and spice. The tannin quality is off the charts and this already offers pleasure today, yet it won’t hit prime time for another 7-8 years and will keep for 25-30 years.