Bright ruby. Sexy, mineral-laced aromas of fresh red berries and potpourri, with a smoky element emerging slowly. Juicy and precise on the palate, with sweet raspberry and cherry flavors that put on weight with air. Fine-grained tannins give shape to the fruit-driven finish, which hangs on with real tenacity.

Coming from sandy soils next to Rayas, the 2012 Châteauneuf du Pape le Grand Pin is a fresher, more focused and linear example of this cuvee. Showing sappy pine bush, Christmas spice and mint in its core of kirsch and blackberry fruit, it flows onto the palate with a seamless, elegant profile that carries fine tannin and bright acidity. It’s a finesse-drive effort, and while I’d like more backend depth and richness, it should evolve nicely through at least 2022.