Wine Advocate June, 2010 Between 1978 and 2007, this 1998 is the greatest Vieux Telegraphe that was produced. It has taken a good decade for this wine to shed its tannins and come out of a dormant, closed period. It has finally emerged, and notes of iodine, seaweed, black currants, incense, and sweet cherries as well as hot rocks jump from the glass of this full-bodied, powerful wine. It possesses considerable elegance and purity, along with loads of raspberries and incense, in a round, juicy, rich style that is just emerging from the closet. The wine is still youthful and a pre-adolescent in terms of its ultimate evolution. Approachable now, it will continue to evolve for another 15-20 years. Bravo! Just beginning to blossom, the 1998 is, for me, the finest Vieux Telegraphe made in 20 years (since the 1978). A spectacular effort, it boasts a deep ruby/purple colour and huge concentration, but it was beginning to open in 2004. It is a very rich, full-bodied wine, yet it has considerable elegance. A beauty! Anticipated maturity: now-2020 (95)

A classic wine from this estate, the 1998 Châteauneuf Du Pape reveals a still youthful ruby/plum hue to go with darker, meaty fruits as well as notes of leather, mushrooms, and Provençal spice. Medium to full-bodied on the palate, with nicely integrated acidity and resolved tannins, the balance is spot on, it has outstanding length, and is just a classy, fully mature Chateauneuf du Pape to enjoy over the coming 5-7 years. (It will keep longer.)

Pure transparent ruby still. There's a menthol streak on the nose, reminiscent of Germolene alongside hay, flowers and red cherry, it really leaps out of the glass. Full-bodied, very generous and rounded still, very fluid and fresh also savoury and distinctly saline. Lovely floating finish, great sense of harmony. There's a touch of farmyard underneath, but it's not overbearing for my palate, it brings complexity. 'It's a great year but it was complicated in its development. At one point, animal, at another, very hard,' says Daniel Brunier.

Saturated dark red. Roasted red berries and plum on the somewhat reticent nose. Rich and layered in the mouth, but brooding and a bit dumb today. The considerable potential of this wine is clearest today on the finish, which features big, ripe tannins that spread over the palate and a burst of red cherry fruit.

Deep crimson and very shaded. Sweet and herby. A bit febrile though much more fruit than some – yet lots of tough tannins on the finish. Dry as dust in texture. Sweet and herby in flavour. Certainly not well balanced at the moment. (JR)