Inky purple. A heady bouquet presents candied dark fruits, potpourri and black olive, with a bright mineral overtone. Deeply pitched cherry and blueberry flavors unfold with air to show a sexy floral nuance and a touch of licorice. Closes chewy and long, with resonating spiciness and slow-building, youthful tannins. This wine was sourced from 75-year-old vines owned by legendary Cornas producer Marcel Juge; Gaillard told me that "they are tended like a garden."

The 2010 Cornas was better, but not particularly inspiring. Too much new oak dominated the wine’s personality, and it was difficult to see any typicity or wild black fruit and damp forest notes that are found in other, more impressive Cornas offerings. Nevertheless, it is an elegant, lighter-weight effort that is best consumed in its first 5-6 years of life. Two cuvees of St.-Joseph are produced, including Les Pierres (which comes from stony soils) and the Clos de Cuminaille (which is a true “Clos”). Importer: North Berkeley Wine Imports, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 336-9880