Probably the finest 2015 spätlese from J.J. Prum, but the nose is still a bit closed. Sensational clarity and vibrancy on the palate, the mineral finish super-long and refined. Better from 2018 and a long future ahead of it.

Apple and quince are garlanded with honeysuckle and heliotrope in another supportively sweet, feather-light yet lush Bert Selbach Spätlese. The vivid fruit juiciness and inner-mouth floral perfume persist on a long finish that is at once soothing and refreshing. David Schildknecht

Challenged by the 2015 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Spätlese, the 2015 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese (AP 13) gives all its charm to keep its legendary number one status among the Jay-Jay classics. In fact, the 2015 opens with a very clear, fine and floral bouquet of white fruits, flowers and weathered slate. It's sweet, lush and juicy on the seductive palate, with a piquant acidity and tight, but still very elegant structure. This is a gorgeous Spätlese that has more sweetness and charm compared to the Zeltingen Spätlese; the latter is more straight, piquant and mineral, with less fruit flesh and sensuality, but intellectual ambitions. Stephan Reinhardt