Donnhoff’s 2006 Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Beerenauslese replicates the sort of amazing layering of flavors for which this site is famous, and which this year’s Auslese awesomely displayed. As Donnhoff remarks “even here you can recognize the site, but on a different plane.” But sheer density doesn’t seem to render the layers harder to separate. With its creamy richness comes a remarkable, wafting sense of levity. Honey, pasted nuts and pit fruits, intensely-spiced tropical fruits, and deep, smoky, saline meat and mineral suggestions are accompanied by fluidity, elegance, and an irresistible savor. You can’t ask much more from a nobly sweet Riesling than the complex mystery on exhibit. But it can ask of you that you give it 15-20 years to develop in bottle. It will surely last for at least 50.